By Katerina Georgiou

Kostetsos’ distinctive line entitled “Phidias-Kalos Pantarkes,” draws inspiration from the relationship between the sculptor and Pantarkes, a young Olympian wrestler. A muscular and bare-chested Pantarkes was the reputed model for Phidias’ famous statue of Zeus at Olympia—one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. As a tribute to his adolescent lover, Phidias carved the words “Kalos Pantarkes” (Partarkes is handsome) on one of the god’s fingers.

“I had the idea to dedicate the collection to Phidias because the whole collection has, at its base, an elastic fabric in a natural color,” said Kostetsos. One look at the body-hugging fabrics and dominant skin-colored tones and it’s easy to see what he’s talking about it.

But Phidias is also best known for his statues of Athena at the Parthenon, and it’s here that the sculptor’s influence on Kostetsos is most obvious.

The ultra feminine collection featured an array of form-fitting fashions that accentuated the entire body’s natural silhouette. Hemlines were, for the most part, short. Sexy mini-bustier dresses emphasized the legs, waist and bust. Some featured plunging necklines and rounded sleeves that drew attention to the shoulders—a key trend for spring.

Longer evening dresses were sheer bottomed, exposing the legs while highlighting the upper body with dramatic one-shouldered cuts or slightly padded sleeves. Light and airy, the floor-sweeping gowns moved seductively with the models’ every step.

One standout was a beige single-shouldered dress that epitomized the collection’s sleek and sexy elegance. Another outstanding gown was all black with a bejeweled low-cut short-sleeved top and sheer skirt with strategically placed fluffy ruffles that rippled with the slightest movement like ocean waves. Both numbers showcased the artistic craftsmanship and powerful details that make many of Kostetsos’ designs unforgettable.

Kostetsos relied on geometric lines to translate the precision and classicism of the sculpted form into well-cut fashions that were both modern and functional. The dominant beige scheme was paired with basic white and black to represent the color of statues and marble. Swarovski crystals were used to evoke the Greek-themed mosaics of the country’s ancient history. Sequins and semi-precious stones rounded off the collection’s romantic effect and gave it a modern feel.

The models strutted down the runway in gladiator-style footwear designed by Haris Kazakos. The shoes and boots came in beige and black with wooden soles instead of heels. Make-up was by Mehron, the theatrical company favored by Broadway. Faces were painted with brown and gold eyeshadow, bronzer, clear lip gloss and a touch of pink on the cheeks. Side parted buns, slicked back and with a slight pouf in the front completed the impeccably stylized look. The sleek men’s collection was dominated by semi-transparent beige colored shirts to give the illusion of nudity. Well-constructed suits, metallic trousers and light jackets were all featured in the upbeat presentation. Silver and bronze accents lent a splash of color to the clean and crisp silhouettes. The versatile look included loose and strait-lined couture jeans mixed with satin jackets for the evening. Long beige scarves added a hint of sophistication to both the day and evening wear, while simple Grecian-style sandals characterized the casual chic world of vacation glamour.

As one of the twelve top designers invited to participate in the show and the only one of Greek decent, Kostetsos wanted to give his New York audience a taste of what he calls “the Greek-European profile”—a modern look that derives sophistication from classical influences.

Though it was his first time showing at New York’s Fashion Week, Kostetsos has been one of Greece’s leading designers since the early 1990’s. He has worked with many of the world’s top models, including Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Kate Moss and Carla Bruni.

An established presence on the international fashion scene, he shows two collections a year at the industry’s major events.

Yet for all his travels, his homeland remains the greatest inspiration for his work. Past collections were inspired by Greek symbols, words and colors. He credits Jella Apostolopoulou, his now departed grade school Greek history teacher, for encouraging his lifelong passion for the subject and fostering a strong tie to his Hellenic roots.

But it was his mother, Anna, a leading clothing importer and boutique owner who had the largest impact on his career. She was already a prominent figure on Greece’s fashion scene by his childhood.

“In the 1970’s she was the first Greek woman to open a clothing boutique in downtown Athens at a time when the neighborhood was dominated by large shops,” he said.

As a boy, he recalls visiting her studio and being enthralled by the “magical” world of fashion and the European designers that frequented her store. Starting at the age of ten, he traveled around the world with her, learning the basics of the trade from selecting fabrics to pairing colors. By fifteen, he presented his first collection at his family’s home and his career began to take shape.

He studied in Paris and Milan, and later worked for a few years as an apprentice before returning to Athens to open his own atelier. He launched his own label at the tender age of nineteen and opened his first studio in Athens’ fashionable neighborhood of Kolonaki in 1990. That same year, his haute couture collection debuted, setting him firmly on the course for stardom.

His fashion lines include: Vassilios Kostetsos-Haute Couture, Polyxeni by Kostetsos, Noetis Collection, Vassilios Kostetsos Made in Hellas and Vassilios Art Collection.

Kostetsos’ impressive showing at Fashion Week has generated much excitement and the designer is currently in discussions to open a showroom in New York or Los Angeles. As his designs are tailor-made for evening and red carpet events, he sees either coast as a natural fit.

When he returns to New York in February for the next round of Fashion Week shows, Kostetsos will unveil a dynamic collection that was influenced by the streets and nightlife of New York City. New Yorkers’ savvy fashion sense, he said, was evident from Cipriani to McDonald’s.

“Fashion is not only aesthetics—it’s tied to our personality,” he said. “It makes our lives better...and happier.”

He’s right about that. I know plenty of women who would be happy to own one of his breathtaking designs.